Holy Smokes!

Had a special treat recently. A smoked meat sandwich and poutine from Caplansky’s. It was one of the last before they temporarily close and move to a new location Sep 1. Caplansky’s got to be quite well known around the city for the year that it’s been open. And its popularity has spawned about a million reviews, a billion blogs and certainly over a gazillion word of mouth praises. Go ahead, Google “Caplansky’s review” and the Google page counter on the bottom won’t be able to keep up.

Therefore, I’m not going to bore you with another review. Because, you don’t need me to tell you that the smoked meat is one-of-a-kind, tender, melt-in-your-mouth goodness that has a smokey flavour heavier even than any BBQ shop in Toronto. I certainly don’t need to mention that it compares favourably to the best smoked meat shops in the world, such as Katz’s and Shwartz’s. And it’s absolutely clear to everyone by now that this is the only true, authentic, purely home-made smoked meat in the city worth trying. Naturally, my sandwich was damn good. And the smoked meat poutine was like eating the same damn good sandwich, but with fries instead of the bread and with an extra healthy dose of half-melted cheese curds.

Instead of a review, this blog is about the strive to perfection. I’ve noticed that way too many restaurants, rather than trying to get better every day, just fall into the funk of complacency. Caplansky spent a significant amount of time perfecting his sandwich. He developed his own brine recipe. Determined how long the meet needs to brine for. Experimented countless hours with the amount of smoke, the length of time to smoke, the type of wood to use, and the perfect smoking temperature. Considering the meat smokes for roughly 14 hours at a low temperature (around 220 degrees), you can imagine how much of a difference 5 degrees can make. And believe me, from someone who’s attempted smoking meat, it takes a phenomenal amount of skill and experience to get the routine right, sandwich after sandwich, day after day. And throughout the year, the recipe has been tweaked. The fries have become tastier and crispier. And the meat has become more consistent.

That’s not say that it’s always perfect. It’s not a cookie cutter cold cut sandwich that comes pre-packaged and is assembled as you wait. Everything is made from scratch, so sometimes it’s a little different than other times. One time, it was… well, there’s no other way to put it… just not good. It was difficult to bite through, not the supple meat that we were used to. So we called the man behind the smoker. He tried the meat himself, apologized and gave us a credit for the entire order, fries and all. But even more surprisingly, he refused customers for several hours, refusing to serve food that wasn’t to his liking. That’s obviously someone that takes pride in what he does. And there are other places that do the same. But for every one that takes pride in their food, there are ten that are there to simply earn a buck. If you care about who earns your well-earned money, then take note of what you’re buying and make sure you pay for what’s worth paying for. We are trying to do our part to help by candidly providing our feedback in this blog. And that’s why my $7 will always find it’s way to a Caplansky’s type establishment. (No, it’s not on Bay St., but they’re great at large group orders if you have someone that can pick them up on occasion.)

Chicken Souvlaki Dinner for Breakfast??????

Yesterday morning I decided to change it up a bit and walked to work via the underground concourse in the financial district. It was a typical walk. Head slightly cocked down to express to all passers-by how tired I was and eyes up.. so I wouldn't bump into anything. Typical walk until I got to the BCE Place Foodcourt, that is.

For those of you that don't know, there's a Jimmy the Greek in that foodcourt. I didn't know that. Never been there.

It is your standard Jimmy the Greek.

But this one was open. At 7:45am!!!! What the? What is going on, I thought. They must just be getting ready for the day, right? Cutting lettuce, roasting potatoes, tending to the gyros (what kind of meat is that anyway??). Right?... It was at that moment that I noticed a white speck in my periphery. Could it be?? Holy %$#!@.. some guy was actually at the cash buying something! He had the standard Jimmy the Greek styrofoam container in his hand. What was he buying? Can you eat chicken souvlaki for breakfast??

My life hasn't been the same since.

Evolution of the Fast Fresh Sandwich

Take 2 minutes and think about how the humble sandwich has evolved within our food courts. Years ago, a sandwich meant ham ‘n cheese with mayo on white bread. Mr. Sub started making enormous sandwiches with a variety of cold cuts. And then Subway came on the scene with slightly higher quality ingredients and freshly baked bread. Quiznos took the sub one notch higher with the toasted concept. And added an astronomically high price tag to boot.

A couple years ago, all of the above was automatically kicked down to a lower league when the “gourmet sandwich” craze took over. Fast Fresh Foods opened up in a food court. What? A small sandwich with a half handful of lightly dressed spring mix salad for $7.50? No way, that can’t be worth it. And then Sandwich Box came along. Eventually, everyone started offering “grilled” or “pressed” or some sort of value added feature to allow them to charge and extra $1.50. And ultimately, Petite Thuet offered up their super-ultra-over-the-top-gourmet sandwiches. So reads the blog post below. And so begins my review of Fast Fresh Foods (FFF) in Commerce Court.

First, let us examine whether the name serves it justice. Fast? When the spot first opened, long lines were the norm. But now, the honeymoon is over and the crowds have moved on. A few short minutes in line and a couple minutes waiting for the sandwich to be grilled is relatively fast. Fresh? Sure. The varieties of bread are mostly from Ace Bakery and are consistently fresh – nice crispy outside and soft chewy inside, stepped up a level once it’s grilled. Meats and cheese are consistently fresh as well. The veggie toppings, however, have lost some of their glamour over the years. What used to be a beautiful and flavourful arugula option is now just dull and slightly limp lettuce. The peppers don’t have the fresh and vibrant colours that they used to. And the side salad has become mediocre at best, just something there to add perceived healthfulness for those concerned. But relative to food court standards, this is absolutely fresh. Food? By Michael Pollan’s own standards, definitely. The chicken is sliced off an actual chicken breast, not an overly manufactured and artificially flavoured Subway-style patty that is identical in size to the last 4,000 served. And the cheese is actual cheese, not modified with plastics and chemicals to have a shelf life of 64 weeks. And the vegetables are made from produce that has been grilled, sautéed, caramelized or otherwise had its flavour enhanced naturally.

I like that you can custom create your own sandwich. Although at times that can get confusing to the point where an inexperienced sandwicher may potentially create a Frankenstein-like monster whose parts taste a whole lot better eaten separately than combined. The sandwich I ate today was good. Frances roll with garlic aioli, chicken, brie, hot peppers and tomatoes. It is fairly consistently very good, at times excellent. Rarely just ok, although this particular experience happened to be that rare case. For $8.48 (tax-in), that compares favourably to, say, a large “gourmet” Subway sandwich at $8.99. It’s not as big, but it’s certainly big enough for a complete lunch. I always had a hard time understanding how one could digest an entire 12” monster loaf for lunch, forget about all the toppings that go inside. And the quality of ingredients more than makes up for any lack of size. FFF compares less favourably to an “ultra-gourmet” sandwich at Petite Thuet for $7-8 (tax-in, but no side salad). These comparisons are all value-based. Thing is, all of this is like comparing last week’s economic numbers to the political environment in South Africa. The sub shops are in a lower league of processed food. And Thuet is in a higher league of gourmet excellence. For what it is, FFF is very good. It’s certainly no Thuet, but many layers of shoulders above the old-fashioned, traditional ham ‘n cheese sandwich.

A Comment On Overindulgence / An Overindulgent Comment

Our culture's nascent obsession with food is a funny little phenomenon. Not too many years ago, one would be considered quite an eccentric for knowing the difference between a sous-vide and a ceviche or that a terrine has absolutely nothing in common with a tajine. For whatever reason though, our cultures epicurean underbelly has been exposed and a sort of food mania has taken over the western world. With this has come a commercial explosion of all things food. One area in particular that has caught my interest is the aptly named ‘fine foods store’ industry. These little boutique establishments are easily recognizable by their upscale yet homely appearance meant to give the patron the impression that they are experiencing the bucolic splendor of a bona-fide cottage industry but without being subjected to the rural milieu that the affluent urbanite would otherwise look upon with contempt. They generally pride themselves in being ‘local’. Every overpriced jar of jam or container of soup will have the artisan’s hand-written initials on it and the merchant behind the counter will likely be anxious to dive into whatever pre-scripted back story he’s concocted about the serendipitous circumstances that brought him to find this home-made pesto to end all home-made pestos. They are pretentious, egregiously priced and obnoxiously fabulous.

It goes without saying that I love these kinds of stores and an old faithful just popped up right outside our front door. Petite Thuet already has a very successful incarnation in the heart of Rosedale but this newly opened spot at Yonge and King is primed to take the coveted downtown lunch crowd by storm. I went for the first time just the other day and happened upon their $11 sandwich and salad ‘special’. They offer a range of other prepared take-away style options but, being a devote lover of all things bread, I had to stay true to what I know best. I choose the lobster on a roll with a beet salad and, with great restraint, exited the store without loading my pockets with (and emptying my wallet on) pre-packaged sopressata and foie gras. Once back to my desk, I took that memorable first bite. The roll was so fresh and buttery it was almost desert-like in its mouth feel. I was immediately filled with that wonderful feeling of guilt that seems to take hold when you know the thing your eating tastes far too good not to be doing irreparable damage to your cardiovascular system. The lobster filling was creamy and flavorful but it could have been a plain mayonnaise sandwich for all I cared. The bread was all that mattered to me. As expected, the beet salad was not much more than advertised (in fact, I found the dressing a little on the acidic side) but the roll made it all worth it. Next time I go into Petite Thuet, I’m going to ask the nice fellow behind the counter about the bread and maybe inquire as to whether he’s stumbled across some nice stinky cheese to go with it. Maybe he’s recently been to the eastern townships of Quebec and met some cheese maker down on his luck but with an uncanny eye for fermentation. Maybe he’s a cheese maker himself. Whatever the case may be, I’m sure he’ll undoubtedly have lots to say and, quite frankly, I’ll be all ears.

Ugly Duckling Tomatoes

I got a request to make a post about tomatoes, which is timely, given that the first of the seasonal heirlooms are just appearing. An heirloom tomato, sometimes referred to as an "ugly tomato" by supermarkets that don't know any better, is a pure-bred variety. The standard tomatoes that you find in supermarkets are typically hybridized to look red, round and appealing. Eating these tomatoes is like listening to Britney Spears. They’ve been manufactured for the masses and lack any meaningful flavour or originality.

But not heirlooms. No, heirlooms are like listening to The Rolling Stones. Unplugged. Live. And in a tiny club that fits only 100 people. They have been passed down for generations, showing scars, bursting with flavour and reminding us of what tomatoes really are all about.And just like good music, they come in countless varieties.

Studying some of these, I find it impossible to understand how anyone can call these fruits “ugly”. Yes, some have very evident scars (which are a sign of high sugar content and thin skin). And some are strangely coloured. But that’s not because they’ve been dropped or have been on the losing end of a knife fight with some rogue potatoes. It’s because that’s the way they naturally are. You have your green zebras, black princes, yellow brandywine, roses, cherokee purples, and the list goes on longer than the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Some are large, some are small. Some are round, some eggplant shaped and others looks like demented accordions. And just as you would think, each has its own vivid flavour and texture.

If you’re a fan of tomatoes, try comparing these high-octane varieties to a regular tomato on the same plate and you’ll never go back! The best place to get them is at a farmers market directly from a farmer. Some supermarkets carry them, but given their short shelf life (once they ripen, they need to be eaten within a day), it can be hard to find good ones there. I prefer to eat them raw with some salt, olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar. Mmmm.

Chicken Souvlaki Dinner for Lunch

In the interest of furthering science, for the past 6 months I've eaten "chicken souvlaki dinner" from Jimmy the Greek a minimum of 3 times a week (all lunches) alternating between the 1st Canadian Place location and the one in Scotia Plaza. That translates to a minimum of 36 servings from each of the locations. Broken down into its components, that is a total of 72 skewers of chicken, 288 pieces of roasted potatoes and a load of rice and greek salad.

Here are my findings......

Ok, I'm joking. Not about the number of servings that I've eaten in the past 6 months (that part is actually true), but the part about furthering science. My intention was not to conduct some ridiculous natural experiment, far from it. I'm just a creature of habit (aka lazy and unimaginative) and thought that chicken souvlaki was a good lunch choice as it is tasty and is about as well balanced as you can find in the food courts.

One of the benefits of eating one particular dish from two different restaurants repeatedly over a period of time is that you are able to form a very informed impression of the quality of food, service, etc., for each particular location as well as a comparison of the two. So here are my real findings.......

Overall
The components of the dish at both locations is almost identical, as is the price (just shy of $10, including a can of pop). Overall, I give the dish two thumbs up or 5 stars. I have no idea whether it tastes like authentic greek food since I've never eaten the dish in Greece, regardless, it is good. Ingredients are always fresh (especially the salad) and the chicken is cooked to perfection. If you are in the mood for chicken souvlaki you will be pleased with what you get at both locations. As a side note, and subject to the proviso below with respect to the roasted potatoes, I found that the level of consistency in the food was very high. The dish tasted the same day in, day out. This is pretty amazing when you think about it. In my view, the only other restaurant that can boast the same level of consistency is McDonald's.

Comparison of the Food
As noted above, the dishes are very similar; however, over time I did notice several subtle differences that are fairly significant.

The roasted potatoes. The roasted potatoes at the Scotia Plaza location (SP) are standard roasted potatoes, cut in random shapes and boiled (?) with various seasonings (I have no idea what they are) to the point where the skin just starts to peel off. They are tasty and so soft that you barely have to chew. Random shapes are not a feature of the potatoes at the 1st Canadian Place location (FCP). The roasted potatoes there are always the same shape. Wedges cut lengthwise down the potato. Similar seasonings are used for these potatotes, but I don't think they are boiled. It almost tastes like they may have been cooked in an oven (mybe after some light boiling?). This really brings out the taste in the potato and is superior to the one at SP. The one downside, is that occasionally you will get one or two wedges that are undercooked which results in a crunchy variant that is slightly displeasing to the palate. Risk and reward I guess.

The sauces. At both locations, the staff will ask you whether you want salad dressing, hot sauce and/or tzatziki. Generally speaking, I think the salad dressing is meant for the salad, the hot sauce for the rice and potatoes and the tzatziki for the chicken. At SP, that is generally where the sauces land.. and always in the right amount. At FCP, the sauces all get blended together and end up on everything. There is no shortage of sauce at FCP either as you will get a "healthy" squeeze of each bottle. I'm a bit of a sauce freak so I actually enjoy the overdose that is typically the norm at FCP... the one negative though is that the container is pretty greasy so be careful when you carry it back to the office. No such issue at SP.

Service
Fast and efficient. Both locations employ the assembly line concept first used by the Chinese Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi to build the terracotta warriors and later perfected by Henry Ford. There are essentially 3 staff that will assemble the meal. It starts with the person who takes the order and initiates the process with the styrofoam container (which is already pre-filled with salad). Next it goes to the person who handles the entree. They will throw in the rice and the potatoes and then with one swift move slide the pieces of chicken off the skewer into the container (so fast that you almost miss it). This person will also ask you if you want hot sauce and tzatziki. If you want both, just nod your head (even if you don't want it you'll get it on occassion... apparently it is easier to stop a golf swing midway then it is to stop the squeeze of the bottle...). Finally you are at the cashier who has already rung up the order and is waiting for your money.

Both locations are so efficient that long line-ups rarely have a chance to form.. and even if they do the wait time is not significant (making it the perfect lunch choice if you decide to go at noon). This is my favourite part... in and out.. no small talk... all business.

Epilogue
So that's my review. I had chicken souvlaki dinner for lunch again today. It was good.

Anatomy of Comfort Food

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder....... and so is "comfort food". Ok. Not quite, but whether something is or isn't comfort food is purely subjective. For me, comfort food has to have certain characteristics.

Taste!
Obviously, it has to taste good. But in order to be comfort food, it has to go beyond that. Its taste cannot be tiresome, no matter how many times you eat it in one week. Its taste also has to transcend the physical boundaries of the food itself so that it makes your mouth water when you just think about it. Taste that exists separate from the food (this is integral as it underpins the very nature of comfort food which is something that provides emotional and mental support and escape)! There's lots of food out there that tastes good.. but comfort food has to have these additional qualities.

Ease of Use....
I always turn to comfort food when I'm feeling down mentally or when I'm compromised physically. In these situations, the last thing I want to be doing is cracking open shells, or pulling out seeds or making intricate incisions with a sharp knife. Comfort food has to be easy to eat and easy to chew. It has to have the perfect texture so that it can soothe the mouth at the same time that it is tingling the taste buds. If you can eat it with your hands, then all the better.

Versatility
Comfort food has to taste good when it is hot and cold and whether it is fresh or 1 day old.

My New Comfort Food
The catalogue of foods that I've acquired over my life that fit these criteria goes like this.... Kentucky Fried Chicken (ok, it contains bones and is not the easiest food to navigate as a result, but due to the Colonel's healthy use of grease the bones pretty much fall out when you pick up a piece of finger lick'n good), thinly sliced fried Kam (for those that are not familiar with Kam, it is a knockoff of Spam the tasty meat like substance that comes in a cool metal container that you open using the little wrench like tool that comes with every can) and Sapporo Ichiban instant ramen noodles, beef flavour. The best damn Japanese ramen noodles which oddly enough are not even from Japan (apparently they are made by a company in the US).

Recently, I have been able to add one more item to my catalogue of "go to's". Butter chicken roti (mild) from Gandhi Roti in Toronto. This stuff is the real deal. A healthy dollup of butter chicken and potatoes wrapped in a steamy soft roti and weighing in at what feels like 3 pounds.

Word has gotten out in the city that this is the best roti around, and for once I can say that this isn't all hype. This is truly good food. In addition to butter chicken, Ghandi offers roti's in many other variants with your choice of spice (from mild to hot). I don't know if the other menu items are good because I've only eaten the butter chicken (mild).

Butter chicken roti.. 5 out of 5 stars in my opinion... the only knock on butter chicken roti is that it doesn't smell like sweet roses when it has been sitting in your knapsack for over 8 hours.... but hey, nothing in life is perfect, right?

Someone once wrote that they hated "lunch indecision".... well if that someone voted for ghandi roti WE WOULDN'T HAVE LUNCH INDECISION!!!!

The lunch indecision

What's for lunch today? Every day presents the same dilemma. Having to decide what to eat with others with differing tastes makes the process even more frustrating. But at least the weather is finally starting to come around and that opens up many more possibilities for walking to get lunch.

There's the choice between close vs far. Healthy vs artery clogging. Light vs heavy. And of course, by the time the decision is made, it's too late to avoid the long lineups at all the good places. I hate the lunch indecision.

Introduction

So starts our first foray into "blogging". The premise of this blog will be simple yet important. Where are the good eats in Toronto? Essentially a food review from the perspective of 4 normal yet slightly deranged individuals. Since we have to eat lunch everyday, we suspect that we will have a lot of content for this site. To the extent that we run out of food reviews and recommendations we will fill the void with useless facts or thoughts. We hope you enjoy.

Nitro.