Monday, July 20, 2009

Ugly Duckling Tomatoes

I got a request to make a post about tomatoes, which is timely, given that the first of the seasonal heirlooms are just appearing. An heirloom tomato, sometimes referred to as an "ugly tomato" by supermarkets that don't know any better, is a pure-bred variety. The standard tomatoes that you find in supermarkets are typically hybridized to look red, round and appealing. Eating these tomatoes is like listening to Britney Spears. They’ve been manufactured for the masses and lack any meaningful flavour or originality.


But not heirlooms. No, heirlooms are like listening to The Rolling Stones. Unplugged. Live. And in a tiny club that fits only 100 people. They have been passed down for generations, showing scars, bursting with flavour and reminding us of what tomatoes really are all about.And just like good music, they come in countless varieties.


Studying some of these, I find it impossible to understand how anyone can call these fruits “ugly”. Yes, some have very evident scars (which are a sign of high sugar content and thin skin). And some are strangely coloured. But that’s not because they’ve been dropped or have been on the losing end of a knife fight with some rogue potatoes. It’s because that’s the way they naturally are. You have your green zebras, black princes, yellow brandywine, roses, cherokee purples, and the list goes on longer than the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Some are large, some are small. Some are round, some eggplant shaped and others looks like demented accordions. And just as you would think, each has its own vivid flavour and texture.


If you’re a fan of tomatoes, try comparing these high-octane varieties to a regular tomato on the same plate and you’ll never go back! The best place to get them is at a farmers market directly from a farmer. Some supermarkets carry them, but given their short shelf life (once they ripen, they need to be eaten within a day), it can be hard to find good ones there. I prefer to eat them raw with some salt, olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar. Mmmm.



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